Table Saw Workbench Building Plans with Rockler T-Track System
Have you ever wanted a nice wood shop table saw workbench and a router table all in one?
Today I want to show you a table saw workbench that I designed to help bring some order to my little workshop.
(Remember how we showed you the mess that we started with last week?)
To help organize this project of ours, we partnered up with Rockler Woodworking and Hardware. They have so many good options for keeping a shop in order and many great tools for building projects. We are excited to partner up with them for this very reason.
I will show you all the great tools that I have now because of them, and how it is making my garage shop experience so much better. You saw a sneak peek of this table last week, and I am so excited to show you how I built the workbench in today’s post.
Table Saw Workbench Woodworking Plans
Or click here to go right to the checkout.
I have always wanted to build a big table saw workbench.
It has been years in the making in my head and now finally coming true to life.
It is a large central table that I will use for almost everything.
The work table has the table saw and router table built in. It would also include a vice and many options for clamping for working on projects.
It’s going to organize and store tools as well. It is going to be AWESOME POSSUM!!!
This post contains affiliate links. Learn more and read our full disclosure policy here.
UPDATE: See how we upgraded the table saw fence!
The Design of the Table Saw Workbench
I really wanted the table to be multi functional and have many useful features. I wanted it to be “pertty good looking” as well. (Thanks Pedro!)
Chances are we will be filming lots of projects from this workbench.
See how I used the table saw workbench to build a two-in-one Hoosier style bar stool step ladder to use while I’m working at the bench and around the garage and also our entry table with cubbies (that can also be a changing table).
The space where I wanted to keep it is big enough for a 4′ x 7′ workbench surface. That is pretty big for a work bench.
You can do a lot on a large surface like that, and you can store a lot underneath it as well. (And you can make yours a full 8 feet if you prefer.)
I did a bunch of research of what other people were doing and tried to create the best option for my needs. Listed below are all of the features that I wanted the table saw workbench to have.
Features of the Table Saw Workbench
- Look amazing!!! That should be obvious right!
- Sturdy and strong with a 1 1/2″ thick table top.
- 3″ table top lip over hang for clamping to table
- Caster wheels to move it around the shop and locking in place.
- Built-in table saw with outfeed area.
- Built-in router lift and router fence.
- T-track system for clamping and building projects.
- Bench vise for more clamping of projects.
- Storage for tools with doors to keep the dust out.
- Leg room when working at the bench sitting on a stool.
- Place to store a bench or two when not in use.
- Dust collection area for under the table saw.
- Improved shop lighting when working on projects.
- Comfortable floor mats for standing areas around the table and table saw.
It took about a three full days to build and finish it. I am so pleased with how it turned out and how useful it has been so far. Here are some closeups of the table top features of the table saw workbench.
Want to know how the workbench is holding up? See our 3-year update post here for what we love and what we’d change.
Built-in Router Lift and Router Fence
This is the awesome router table that I now have. It features a fence that slides back and forth in the T-Track and is easily removed for an entire table of flat surface to work on.
Safety Feature: Router Stop Switch
A really big stop switch attached to the router for better safety while routing.
Workbench Bench Vise
A sweet bench vise with quick-release is always handy.
T-Track Clamping System
Tons of room for using the T-Track clamping system with all the different ways to clamp projects.
Movable with Heavy Duty Locking Casters
Lockable heavy duty casters let me move it when I need it, but hold it very secure when I’m working.
Workbench Storage Space
Bench storage (and see my new Hoosier step stool setup here) and comfy floor mats. Why not be comfortable in your work space right?
Workbench Cord Organization
Oh and this cord reel has been amazing to use. It’s heavy duty and 30′ long. It also locks in place if you only need ten feet. It really cleans up the shop being able to retract a power cord back up in a nice neat reel.
List of Products from Rockler.com Used in the Post
As we said, we love working with Rockler because of their amazing products!
FYI these are affiliate links, which means if you click and purchase through these links, we receive a small commission that helps us create new projects and videos like this — I really love these products, so I highly recommend them!
Workbench
List of Products from Rockler.com Used in the Post
As we said, we love working with Rockler because of their amazing products!
FYI these are affiliate links, which means if you click and purchase through these links, we receive a small commission that helps us create new projects and videos like this — I really love these products, so I highly recommend them!
Workbench
- (4) 4″ Polyurethane Casters, Total-Lock Swivel (Plate Mount)
- (2) 4″ Polyurethane Casters, Swivel (Plate Mount)
- (20′) Rockler Universal T-Track
- (9) Rockler T-Track Intersection Kit
- (1) Rockler Pro Lift Router Lift (8-1/4” x 11-3/4” plate)
- (1) Rockler Router Table Fence
- (1) Rockler 4-Piece Router Table Accessory Kit
- (1) Safety Power Tool Switch
Fence I upgraded to (details here):
Clamps
- (2) Rockler T-Track Corner Stop
- (2) Rockler Auto-Lock T-Track Clamp
- (2) Rockler Auto-Lock T-Track Hold Down Clamp
- (1) Rockler Heavy Duty Quick Release Front Vise
- (2) Rockler Clamp-It® Corner Clamping Jigs
Lighting
Floors
- (1 pack) Interlocking Anti-Fatigue Mat
Power Cords
Dust Collection Hoses
Build Your Own Table Saw Workbench
Now I will show you how to make your own table saw workbench, including the woodworking plans; tools, materials, and cut list; and step by step instructions of how to make your own table saw workbench.
The only thing that might be different in your plans would be the type of table saw that you would use to build it in. Mine was a fifteen-year-old Delta table saw.
You could even leave out the table saw and just build the table if you like. There are many options here.
Plan Dimensions
Top View
Front View
Side View
Tools List
Here are the tools that I used to build the table.
- Table saw
- Circular saw
- Plywood circular saw blade
- Jig saw
- Miter Saw
- Drill
- Router for T-Track tracks
- Power chord
- 3/4″ diameter router bit
- Sockets for lag bolts
- Sander
- Sand paper 120 and 150
- Brush for polyurethane
- Rags for dusting
- Pencil
- tape measure
Workbench Materials List
Be sure to use cabinet grade plywood or better quality for flatness and select all your wood that is as straight as possible.
- (4) Sheets of Plywood
- (2) 4x4x8′
- (3) 2x4x8′
- (40+) 1 1/4″ wood screws
- (24) 1/4″ x 2″ Lag Bolts
- (20) 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws for soft wood
- (4) 4″ Polyurethane Casters, Total-Lock Swivel (Plate Mount)
- (2) 4″ Polyurethane Casters, Swivel (Plate Mount)
- (1) 4′ – Rockler 4 Ft. Universal T-Track
- (5) 3 – Rockler 3 Ft. Universal T-Track
- (9) Rockler T-Track Intersection Kit
- (1) Rockler Pro Lift Router Lift (8-1/4” x 11-3/4” plate)
- (1) Rockler Router Table Fence
- (1) Rockler 4-Piece Router Table Accessory Kit
- (1) Safety Power Tool Switch
- (1) 15′ Heavy Duty Power cord to connect router and table saw to power
- (8) 1 1/4″ x 1/4″ Wood Screws for the vise
- (2) Rockler Clamp-It® Corner Clamping Jigs
Cut List
- (1) 78″ x 42″ x 3/4″ – Plywood Base
- (6) 4×4 x 29″ – Legs
- (3) 2×4 x 35″ – Short Support Beams
- (2) 2×4 x 36 3/4″ – Long Support Beams
- (1) 78″ x 29″ x 3/4″ – Middle Plywood Partition
- (2) 84″ x 48″ x 3/4″ – Plywood Workbench Top
- (1) 40″ x 24 3/4″ x 3/4″ – Table Saw Shelf
- (2) Varies depending on height of your saw- Table Saw Shelf Supports
- (2) 12″ x 4″ x 3/4″ Bench Vise Blocks
Instructions to Build the Table Saw Workbench
Get the full printable plans here.
Part 1: Build the Workbench Base
Cut the plywood base to length and width. (78″ x 42″)
Cut six 4×4 legs to length (29″).
Cut two 2×4 short support beams to length and drill two pocket holes in ends (34″).
Assemble three leg assemblies of 4×4 and 2×4 support beams with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and set upside down.
Attach the plywood base to leg assemblies with 1 1/4″ wood screws. Keeping the legs square to the outside corners and centering the middle leg assembly to the plywood base.
Attach four locking casters on the four corners through plywood base into 4×4 legs. Predrill the holes to avoid splitting. Attach two swivel casters in the middle. Use four lag bolts per caster and add a lock washer and a washer to each lag bolt.
Flip table over and attach long beam supports between leg assemblies with pocket screws.I was able to clamp a block of wood under the long support to hold it flush with the top of the leg assemblies.Here is how the supports look finished.
Cut out and install middle plywood partition (78″ x 29″).
Cut out the top corners where the end beams and middle beams are with jig saw. I cut them 1/8″ bigger than the 2×4 so I had enough room to get the partition in easier.
Install middle plywood partition to the long support beams on the table saw side with 1 1/4″ wood screws. Below I am screwing the partition in to the bottom of the table. You will also be able to screw into the top support beam as well.
Cut out plywood workbench top pieces and attach with screws (84″ x 48″).
Attach the first layer of plywood workbench top to the top of the legs and beams and screw in place with 1 1/4″ wood screws. Be sure the center it with a 3″ overhang on all sides.
Attach the second plywood workbench top the the top of the first plywood workbench top with wood screws from underneath. (Be sure the keep screws out of the path of the router channels for the T-Track.)At this point the table is all built and ready to use. I am taking it further though to add all the other goodies to it.
Part 2: Table Saw Hole and Shelf Preparation, Miter Lift Preparation
Cut out table saw hole with circular saw and jig saw. Measure out the size of your table saw top and cut it to fit that size.
Use tape to protect the edge of the plywood.
Cut out and build table saw shelf
Cut table saw shelf to length and width (40″ x 24 3/4″).
Cut out corners to wrap around the legs. Add 1/8″ to the leg thickness of 3 1/2″, to give room to install it without being too tight.
Cut out table saw shelf supports.
Assemble shelf and supports with screws. I used these awesome corner clamping jigs for holding the supports in place while I screwed them together with 1 1/4″ wood screws.
Cut out hole for table saw dust to fall into. This hole is 3/4″ smaller than the base of the table saw. That way the table saw still has something to sit on.
Attach shelf to table with 1 1/4″ wood screws. I jacked up the shelf and clamped it in place so I could screw it in underneath. I also squared it off and screwed it in through the partition.
Rout out miter gauge outfeed channel in workbench top. Rout it long enough to get the miter past the blade of the table saw.
Part 3: T-Track Preparation and Installation
Route out T-Track channels over the entire table at 3/8″ deep. You want the channels to be deep enough to keep the top of the T-Track flush or just below the surface of the table top. See top view of table for layout of channels.This is where the T-Track intersections will go.
Router Lift Preparation
Cut out router lift hole with router at the depth of the lift plate. Just slightly bigger than 3/8″ deep. Start routing in the middle and work your way around in circles until you get to the edges. At the edges I clamped down wood as bumpers to keep my lines nice and square.
Sand and polyurethane table top. I sanded with 120 grit sand paper. I also rounded all the corners by hand so they wouldn’t be so sharp. On the outside edges I used an orbital sander to remove all the print on the boards and level the two top layers together. After I sanded I brushed in four layers of scratch resistant polyurethane. I also sanded with 150 grit sand paper between coats. I wanted it to be a really nice smooth surface.
Now it’s time to install the T-Track. I started with the intersections then cut the T-Track to length with a metal blade on the jig saw. This part was fun because it was all coming together.
Part 4: Table Saw Installation
Level the table saw with shims. I gave myself some wiggle room to be able to shim it up to the right height of the table top. I got it nice and flush with the top.
Part 5: Router Lift Installation
Install router lift adjustment screws. I installed four of these adjustable screws around each corner of the router lift for fine tuning the lift to the table. I had to go to the hardware store and pick these up. Once these are installed, all you need to do with this screw is reach under the table to level out the router lift flush with the top of the table. You should only have to do this once when you first install the lift.Here is a picture of the screws and how they are installed. Drill a hole for the nut and screw it in with an Allen wrench. Then reach under and make the fine tunes adjustments to the level of the lift.This is a longer version of the two screws that came with the lift. Because the table was 1 1/2″ thick, the screw that came with the lift was too short. I added the nut to a longer screw that matched. The nut gets hammered into the bottom of the table, so it would clamp the lift on really tight.This is how it ended up. Nice and flush.
Part 6: Bench Vise and Bench Vise Block Installation
Install vice with 1 1/4″ wood screws to the base of the workbench table top. I clamped the vise in place and pre-drilled the holes to make it easier to screw in.
Build a block for the the vise. Cut out two blocks of wood at (12″ x 4″). Glue them together. Drill three holes for the three bars of the vise to slide through. Sand and polyurethane the block.
Remove the two big nuts at the end of the vise. Install the block of wood you just made over the three bars of the vise. Align the block with the top of the table then screw in four big 1 1/4″ wood screws through the black metal vise into the block of wood to hold it in place.
Whow! That was a lot of work… But the thing is, it’s done and ready to use. I plan on this table lasting FOREVER!
Now I need to take the time to find out what tools go where and customize the spaces under the table for them. I also have plans to build the doors like I mentioned in the design. I will have to let you know how that goes in the near future.
Thanks for reading this post and stay tuned for more shop updates.
Let me know if you have any good suggestions about how you organize your shop and what has been working well. I would love to hear your feedback!
More woodworking plans:
- Hoosier Step Stool/Barstool Step Ladder
- Portable Wood Wedding Arch/Arbor
- DIY Barn Door Baby Gate and Dutch Door
All About My Table Saw Workbench
Lorene has been behind the scenes here at Remodelaholic for more than a decade! She believes that planning projects and actually completing them are two different hobbies, but that doesn't stop her from planning at least a dozen projects at any given time. She spends her free time creating memories with her husband and 5 kids, traveling as far as she can afford, and partaking of books in any form available.
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Cassity, I love the plan but am having trouble getting the plan sent to my email. It is telling me that the site is not available. I could just leave it up on my computer and draw it up by hand but would rather have the paper drawing if possible. Of course, I will be adjusting it to meet my adjusting it to meet my needs in my limited shop space but I love the ideas presented.
Neil
Hi Neil,
So sorry for the trouble. Our email delivery system has been showing that glitch — I think we have it fixed now! Even with the page not found, it should have been delivered to your inbox. If it didn’t come through, drop me a line at hello@remodelaholic.com. Thanks!
What table saw fence did you use?
Dave, the table saw fence is the fence that came with my old Delta saw. I do want to get a new one though that would be longer. I have been using my router fence for some cuts on the table saw and that has been working too.
Looks greate!
How much did this workbench cost to build?
The total cost was just under $1500. $200 for wood and screws and $1300 for the Rockler accessories to make it amazing. Worth every penny! I am so pleased every time I use it.
Were you able to get birch plywood cheaper than $50 a sheet? Birch plywood at my local HD is $53 a sheet? The plywood alone is $200. I love the design and will build my own soon. Any info on saving money on this would be great. Thanks for the awesome build and plans.
It was about $45 per sheet. You could try other plywood that is cheaper, but it might not be as smooth. Good luck!
How does the table saw fence stay in place and how does it move beyond the existing table saw top if there is no rail on the opposite side for it grab?
Robert, the fence stays in place by clamping where you pull the lever down. I found that it really didn’t need additional support on the back side of the fence that just sits on the table. I am limited with how wide I can cut with my current fence that came with the Delta saw. My plan is to buy a longer fence assemble to go out past 4′ from the saw blade.
I love this and am starting this weekend. Would love suggestions what kind of fence system you may have now, or are going to purchase. Have been researching it a lot!
sorry about the long link but here is the fence that I want to get. I just haven’t been able to buy it yet. Hopefully this spring.
https://www.rockler.com/table-saw-fence-systems?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla_with_promotion&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=CjwKCAiA45njBRBwEiwASnZT5-E64HHnrye501sG2sutuzn4YwjLgdOAuEOsd8zsEiWPUbn8Vhl6PxoCjvQQAvD_BwE
I love this bench, I am trying to recreate it in sketchup to make my own variation of it, quick question how can the table saw top shelf go 24 3/4″ deep? is the middle partition off center?
Yes the partition is off center. I would love to see what design you come up with. Good Luck!
Great bench, great plans, thank you for a great post with detail.
Question – now that you’ve been using the bench for a good amount of time, is there anything you would do different if starting from scratch? Thanks again.
I would have added a nicer fence that runs the length of the table. But I still plan on adding that.
What kind of table saw do you have?
20 year old delta table saw.
Loved the build. It inspired me to build my own. I’m curious what you chose to use as a finish on the plywood!
Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. I am glad you like it and will be building your own. I really love using it. I used a clear polyurethane by Minwax. Good luck with yours. Send in a picture when you are done. I would love to see it.
I want to build this using the plans you provided however have a question.
Why didn’t you just keep the plywood at its full length and width? I see that you cut a foot off the top pieces of plywood but kept the 4 feet wide. Then on the bottom portion of the table it looks like you went even smaller. Any reason you did it that way? I know you want an overhang on the table. But why not leave the full 8 x 4 for the top and then you could have had the bottom a bit longer and wider as well providing more space. At one point it looks like you one piece of plywood on the top and have a 2nd piece right next to it. Not sure I am explaining it correctly. So you did double up on the top with two pieces of plywood. But it looks from the photos like the table top has two separate rip cuts.
I designed it to be 7’ long because that fits better in my shop then a full 8’. I just wanted the top to be full size and I wasn’t worried about the bottom being smaller. I do think that it looks nicer. If you have the room and want the top and bottom to be wider that would still work. Good luck! Send me a picture when you get it built.
What fence system did you use, the one for your saw doesn’t look like it would be sufficient for the increase in table size and depth?
I used the old fence that came with the saw. I has been working great until I can upgrade it to a bigger one.
which model of Delta do you have? I like the bench and I have 36-640 with a rear mounted motor and pulley system so I may have to modify the cutout area under the table to accommodate my saw.
I have the Delta Shopmaster model TS300 with a 10″ blade. All saws will be different, you will just need to make adjustments according to what you have. Let me know how it turns out.
I’m thinking about recreating this table – I’ve just started getting into woodworking. I need to purchase a table saw and was originally looking at Dewalt. However, the more I think about it – will the rack and pinion fence system they use be able to work with something like this? I like how you have the front clamping fence so you can extend it as long as you need in the future, etc. I don’t think this would work with a Dewalt – thoughts?
If not Dewalt – is there a solid, all around benchtop table saw you’d recommend? I want one that can take a dado.
Thanks! Great table!
Without any cross sectional support for the bottom plywood base, how limited are you on weight it can support without bowing? I’ve got some heavyish things I would likely want to stow away down there. Thanks.
I would add extra support underneath if you are worried. I have heavy things on mine and its not bowing. Just build a 2×4 frame that does not get in the way are of the casters.
I routed my T-Track channels 3″ from the table edges like you have in your measurements. The problem is the Rockler T-Track Intersections are 3″ to the tip of the intersecting end so it comes up short of the edge of the table? I bought the exact intersections your link goes to? Do I just leave the gap now I guess?
Can you send a picture? I’m not sure what happened.
I sent you pictures via the “Submit pictures here” link above.
Also, where is the blog link for detailed instructions on cutting out the router lift area you mention in your video above?
It’s in this blog post you commented to. There are dimensions and photos.
I figured out what happened. You have a 3/8″ gap right? I have a dimension in the plan that I will be updating. Thank you for pointing this out. It will work just fine that way it is with the small gap. Thanks for building the table. I hope you love it.
I loved your table saw workstation. I plan on building one as soon as I order the plans. I have one question, on your fence for the saw, it does not look like you have a guide for the back of the fence. How does it not move out of square? Is that an after market fence and how can I order that one?
I removed my back guide and have no problems. Here is the fence that I will be adding the the table soon. https://www.rockler.com/table-saw-fence-systems?sid=AFX98 Thanks for loving the table.
Did you remove the back fence rail from your table saw to make it fit flush with the table?
I did and my fence works fine without it.
Great work! Being that it was a few years ago, do you have any updates pictures of tool storage, etc? Anything you would do differently if you were to rebuild?
I don’t yet but I just bought a new fence that I’m excited about. I think i would move in the router toward the table saw about 3 to 6 inches. Thanks for the comment!
Why did you use 2 sets of plywood for the top?
I wanted the top to be thicker and stronger. Especially because I inlayed the t-tacks. Thanks for asking!
You said if you did it again you’d move the router lift closer to the table saw. Why is that? More room to work with? I am in the process of building this and almost to the point of installing the router lift. Just curious of your thoughts before I start cutting out the hole.
Also curious if you mounted a power strip under the top to keep the saw and router plugged in so that you can easily plug them in? If so, is there a power strip that you recommend? I am also thinking about adding drill and driver hangers as well as a charging station for the batteries that I’d like to plug in to a power strip as well.
One other thing I am thinking of doing is incorporating dust collection hoses and attachments so that it would be a quick hookup.
I think the router lift will work best about 3″ closer to the table saw because it would give the router accessories that help push the wood against the router fence have more room for wider pieces to route.
I just have an extension cord to the router. I don’t have a power strip but thats a great idea.
Good luck with the build.
I didn’t plan far enough into the future when deciding to make this bench. I just got a new tablesaw, and the base is 24″ deep. Going to need a workaround to get it to fit. I also am not positive how I’m going to do my fence as it extends behind the saw a bit. I got the Bosch 4100XC-10 so if anyone has any ideas on a workaround that would be greatly appreciated. I did order the 50″ Vega fence, so hopefully that will solve that issue.
I am in the same situation with the Bosch 4100XC.
I have played around with a few thoughts like extending the base of the shelf and shaping it to a semi circle so I dont bump may knees.
Have you all come up with anything?
AP